
Adjacent to the modern port of Heraklion lies the charming Venetian harbor, now transformed into a marina, guarded by the formidable Koules fortress that historically safeguarded its entrance. Commencing at this spot, the 2-kilometer-long jetty of the contemporary port stands as a favored walking route among the locals.
Across Koules, where the Marina café now stands, stood a smaller fort known as Small Koules until the early 20th century, protecting the opposite side of the entrance. The coastal avenue retains remnants of the oblong arched shipyards, the Zane tank (adjacent to the larger shipyards), and the salt storage house nestled between the large and small shipyards.
Initially constructed by the Arabs in the 9th – 10th century for pirate expeditions, the port was later utilized by the Byzantine Castle of Handax (as Heraklion was known in that era) after 961 AD. Under Venetian rule, the port of Candia thrived as the paramount port in the Eastern Mediterranean, witnessing prolific export activities. During the 17th century, it accommodated up to 50 galleys and, notably during the Cretan War against the Turks, employed a massive metal chain to block the entrance nightly. Exports to Europe included renowned commodities like Malvasia wine, Elounda salt, honey, cheese, beeswax, silk, raisins, cotton, and olive oil.
Throughout the Ottoman era, the Turks maintained control over this pivotal harbor. However, the picturesque harbor underwent significant alterations during the 20th-century modernization, making way for the coastal road and the new port. Most of the shipyards, Small Koules, and the Gate of the Molos were demolished. The last gate emerged at the start of the current pedestrian road of August 25, regulating access to the harbor.
Koules, the formidable medieval fortress, still stands at the base of the western breakwater of Heraklion’s modern port. Originally known as Rocca al Mare by its Venetian founders, Koules, or the Great Koules, coexisted with the Small Koules opposite the marina pier, demolished in the early 20th century to create the pier’s space. Furthermore, Koules was constructed on the grounds of another round tower with battlements.
The evolution of this fortress mirrors both architectural development and historical significance. During the Minoan Era and beyond, Crete faced no external threats, obviating the need for coastal fortifications. However, the rise of pirates in the Mediterranean necessitated fortifications for cities and ports. While the Byzantines fortified several Cretan locations, the extent of their efforts fell short. Consequently, Crete succumbed to Arab conquest in 824 AD, leading to the fortification of Heraklion as Kandax, a base for pirate raids. After various upheavals, the Venetians took over, fortifying the city with substantial walls and renaming it Candia or Grand Castle. To enhance harbor safety, they erected the renowned Rocca al Mare fortress, originally a modest tower, as previously mentioned.
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